Since my first ever trip to Medewi Beach Bali, in 2009, I have been in love with the people (yes, it is Dwi’s village), the peace and quiet of the area and of course this wave! Just imagine perfect long left hander waves that runs for hundreds of meters. Yep, it is a surfers dream and I am lucky enough to call it my second home. Dwi’s family house within the village is about 150m to the beach. We are pretty lucky to wake up, check the waves, surf, rest, surf again and fall asleep so close to the ocean.
When we are in Bali, which for the last few years, has been more often than not, we surf almost everyday. We always get asked what our favourite wave is in Bali and where is our favourite place to be. Our answer is always the same; Medewi a.k.a. our second home. Yeah, we are a little biased as our Bali family and many friends are there, but as the saying goes; we are always drawn back to the same place to live our island life while riding our favourite wave at Dwi’s home!
My favourite thing to do in the world is to throw on a bikini (no wetsuits needed in Bali!) and paddle out at Medewi Point with Dwi and surf all day. With the minimal crowds that are mostly locals and the occasional surf camp, we are faced with perfect waves that roll all the way through to the palm-tree-lined beaches. What is there not to love about it!?
There are many surfs that come to mind when I think about a favourite surf, but there are always a few that truly stand out to me. The sunset surfs when the swell has been perfect, the tides also perfect and the waves are even more perfect. From the minute I paddle out and catch the first wave that rolls in for a few hundred meters to the rocky shore, I always get a feeling of being a grommet (a young surfer) especially when I have to do a ‘run around’.
If you’ve ever been to Medewi then you will know about the huge paddle back out after scoring an epic wave. Yep, it’s a big one and the grommet style run around is always my choice. And hey, it gives me time to get my breath back grab a water and a banana after non stop paddle and a longgg ride!